Shih Tzu Grooming: The Complete Guide

01

Why is Shih Tzu grooming different from other small dogs?

Four breed traits drive almost every grooming decision: a long double coat that traps shed hair, a flat face, large prominent eyes, and sensitivity to heat.

• A long double coat. The Shih Tzu coat has two layers and grows continuously. Shed undercoat hair gets trapped in the outer coat instead of falling out, and that’s what forms mats. Skip brushing for a few days and tangles turn into tight knots close to the skin.
• A flat (brachycephalic) face. Food, water and tears collect in the facial hair. The face needs its own daily attention.
• Large, prominent eyes. Hair from the muzzle and head can poke into the eyes. According to The Shih Tzu Club (UK), hair irritating the eye can lead to infection or ulceration, so hair around the eyes has to be managed.
• Heat sensitivity. PetMD notes that the breed’s short, flat muzzle puts it at higher risk of overheating, which matters for dryer settings and long grooming sessions.

Keep these four in mind and most grooming choices, from which brush to use to which haircut to pick, make sense.

02

Which Shih Tzu haircut should you choose?

For most pet owners, a puppy cut or teddy bear cut is the best choice. Both keep the classic Shih Tzu look with far less daily brushing than a full long coat.

Shorter cuts don’t remove the need for care around the eyes, ears, paws and rear. They just make the body coat much easier to keep tangle-free.

03

How often should you groom a Shih Tzu?

Brush and wipe the face daily, check ears weekly, bathe every 1–3 weeks, trim nails every 2–4 weeks, and book a haircut every 4–12 weeks depending on the cut.

04

How do you brush a Shih Tzu without fighting mats?

Mist the coat, then “line brush” in small sections from the skin outward, starting at the legs and working up. Finish with a metal comb. Wherever the comb snags, there’s a tangle the brush missed.

The four tools that do most of the work

• Slicker brush. Fine wire pins that pull out loose undercoat and work through light tangles. Choose flexible pins and a small head that fits around legs and ears.
• Metal comb with wide and fine teeth. Your quality check. If it glides from skin to tip, the coat is truly brushed out.
• Detangling or conditioning spray. Brushing a bone-dry long coat breaks hair and causes static. A light mist makes every pass easier.
• Pin brush. For finishing and fluffing longer coats. Optional for short puppy cuts.

Line brushing, step by step

1. Mist the coat lightly with detangling spray.
2. Start low on a back leg. Hold the hair up with one hand so you can see a line of skin.
3. Brush down from that line in small sections, from the skin outward.
4. Move up a little at a time, letting a new layer of hair down and repeating.
5. Work around the body: back legs, belly, front legs, chest, back, neck, then head and ears.
6. Finish with the comb through every section. Go back with the slicker wherever it snags.

Go gently with the slicker. Pressing too hard can scratch the skin, especially on a small dog. Let the pins do the work.

Where mats start on a Shih Tzu

Check these spots every day: behind and under the ears, the armpits, under the collar or harness, between the back legs and around the belly, under the tail, and between the toes.

What to do with a mat

• Small tangle: add detangling spray, hold the hair firmly at the base so you’re not pulling the skin, and tease it apart from the tip toward the skin with the end of your comb. The Shih Tzu Club (UK) is clear: never pull a tangle, because it’s painful for the dog.
• Tight mat close to the skin: don’t try to brush it out, and be very careful with scissors, since skin can be pulled up into the mat. Use clippers or leave it to a groomer.
• Matted all over: a professional shave-down and a fresh start is kinder than hours of pulling. Many owners reset this way and switch to a shorter cut.

05

How often should you bathe a Shih Tzu, and how?

Most Shih Tzus do well with a bath every 1–3 weeks. Brush out fully first, wash the face last with a damp cloth, use a dog shampoo and conditioner, and dry the coat completely on low heat.

1. Brush out completely first. No exceptions.
2. Use lukewarm water and test it on your wrist.
3. Wash the body first, the face last, with a damp washcloth rather than pouring water over the head. This keeps water and shampoo out of the eyes and nose.
4. Use a dog shampoo, not a human one, and a tear-free formula around the face.
5. Condition long coats. It makes the next week of brushing noticeably easier.
6. Rinse thoroughly. Leftover shampoo irritates skin and attracts dirt.
7. Squeeze, don’t rub. Press water out with a towel. Rubbing a wet long coat creates tangles.

Dry the coat all the way to the skin

A damp undercoat is where mats and skin irritation start, and air drying rarely reaches the skin on a long coat. Use a dryer on a low to moderate, never hot, setting, as The Shih Tzu Club (UK) advises, and brush section by section while you dry. Once dry, comb through to check for tangles. Keep checking the skin with your fingers; if any part feels cool or damp, keep going.